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The New York Times reports that "driven by fast-changing definitions of what is healthy to eat, people are turning to foods they shunned just a couple of years ago. Studies now suggest that not all fat, for example, necessarily contributes to weight gain or heart problems. That has left companies scrambling to push some foods that they thought had long passed their popularity peak — and health advocates wondering what went wrong.

"Under the new thinking, not all fat is bad, and neither are all salty foods. A stigma among the public remains for sugar substitutes, but less so for cane sugar, at least in moderation. And all of those attributes are weighed against qualities like simplicity and taste."

The Times goes on to write that while "food companies have been working feverishly over the last several years to offer what consumers perceive as improved nutritional content and healthier food," the reality is that "consumers are constantly recalculating the pros and cons of the foods they eat — leading to some unexpected foods rising in popularity.

"For example, in 2015, Americans checked the fat content on food labels less often than they did in 2006, according to research from the Natural Marketing Institute. They’re focusing more on the list of ingredients, a product’s environmental impact and animal welfare..."

And, the Times points out, there's also the matter of taste: "A majority of Americans say they value taste more than how healthy a food is."
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